My DeArmond M-75T is not necessarily my "Desert Island" guitar....but...I like to to much to get rid of it. It has a couple issues that keep it from being awesome but...even with "warts an' all"...it's a pretty nice guitar. I think a lot of people overlook the DeArmond line. So...here's a dive into mine.
A little History:
I won't get into the history and background of Guild Guitars here....there are plenty of other places to get all that.
(like here: https://guildguitars.com/our-company/history-and-heritage/ )
but....back in the mid/late 90's Guild was still a stand-alone Guitar manufacturer, and was making a line of "mid-range" guitars in Korea, under the DeArmond name. The M-75T was one of them. The model is M-75, the "T" is for Tremolo. I believe these were a $700-$800 base price guitar (I think I paid just under $700--out the door with a nice hardshell DeArmond case), so they were not a "cheap" guitar by any means, but they were also not a top-of-the-line Guild, and never had the "Guild" brand on them....just a little mention of "By Guild" on the truss rod cover.... Sadly, when Fender took over Guild, the DeArmond line was put to rest.....
I won't get into the history and background of Guild Guitars here....there are plenty of other places to get all that.
(like here: https://guildguitars.com/our-company/history-and-heritage/ )
but....back in the mid/late 90's Guild was still a stand-alone Guitar manufacturer, and was making a line of "mid-range" guitars in Korea, under the DeArmond name. The M-75T was one of them. The model is M-75, the "T" is for Tremolo. I believe these were a $700-$800 base price guitar (I think I paid just under $700--out the door with a nice hardshell DeArmond case), so they were not a "cheap" guitar by any means, but they were also not a top-of-the-line Guild, and never had the "Guild" brand on them....just a little mention of "By Guild" on the truss rod cover.... Sadly, when Fender took over Guild, the DeArmond line was put to rest.....
June 99 price list shows the suggested retail .....
One of the nicer images I could find...that shows off the blue sparkle a little bit.. not my guitar....I think mine is in better shape :-)
The basic guitar consists of a carved maple top over agathis (with a 3 ply -- cream/black/cream binding around the top edge).
A 24 and 3/4 inch set neck with a mahogany/rosewood board and 22 frets (cream binding on neck).
The nut is plastic, 1 and 11/16". Cut fairly well....maybe a little deep for a guitar with a Bigsby.
The bridge is a very basic tune-o-matic. More on the bridge later....
Tuners are nice, but feel like they may be plastic / nylon inside. They turn just a little to nice and easy to be metal on metal.
Trem is a Bigsby-licensed aluminum DeArmond vibrato. (or...as some call it...a "Digsby".)
Pickups are both surface mount DeArmond - 2K's.
Standard 2 volume, 2 tone; 3-way switch... nothing special or tricky with the wiring.
A 24 and 3/4 inch set neck with a mahogany/rosewood board and 22 frets (cream binding on neck).
The nut is plastic, 1 and 11/16". Cut fairly well....maybe a little deep for a guitar with a Bigsby.
The bridge is a very basic tune-o-matic. More on the bridge later....
Tuners are nice, but feel like they may be plastic / nylon inside. They turn just a little to nice and easy to be metal on metal.
Trem is a Bigsby-licensed aluminum DeArmond vibrato. (or...as some call it...a "Digsby".)
Pickups are both surface mount DeArmond - 2K's.
Standard 2 volume, 2 tone; 3-way switch... nothing special or tricky with the wiring.
Bang for buck.
Apparently, when some of the larger retail chains (Guitar Center) were blowing these out of their inventory (after production ceased), people were picking these up for a song....I've seen forum posts and such, by people saying they picked them up for $200-$300 ??
If you got one for that price....you got a hell of a deal.
These are now showing up on Reverb and eBay in the $250-$500 range. If you get a chance to snatch one of these up at the low end of that range.....you could do worse......heck...for the right price....I'd be tempted to pick up a second one. They are probably never going to be a "collectors guitar", but they're a decent player .... and with a little TLC, they can be pretty great.
Apparently, when some of the larger retail chains (Guitar Center) were blowing these out of their inventory (after production ceased), people were picking these up for a song....I've seen forum posts and such, by people saying they picked them up for $200-$300 ??
If you got one for that price....you got a hell of a deal.
These are now showing up on Reverb and eBay in the $250-$500 range. If you get a chance to snatch one of these up at the low end of that range.....you could do worse......heck...for the right price....I'd be tempted to pick up a second one. They are probably never going to be a "collectors guitar", but they're a decent player .... and with a little TLC, they can be pretty great.
The Good.
The fit/finish on the M75T I have is awesome. This guitar was put together well. I hope QC wasn't getting paid by the faults they found...cuz' man...there are none here... The biggest gripe I could come up with...was just a couple little binding imperfections, where the cream/black/cream binding spacing of the 3 ply's was a little tight around some of the tighter curves / corners. Seriously....I had to get that nit-picky to find something to gripe about. The neck /body fit and finish on this guitar is superior to a LOT of guitars that cost a LOT more money. It's damn nice.
(Internet rumors are that the M75's chambered cosin, the M77 is put together even better....but that's probably pretty subjective )
The fit/finish on the M75T I have is awesome. This guitar was put together well. I hope QC wasn't getting paid by the faults they found...cuz' man...there are none here... The biggest gripe I could come up with...was just a couple little binding imperfections, where the cream/black/cream binding spacing of the 3 ply's was a little tight around some of the tighter curves / corners. Seriously....I had to get that nit-picky to find something to gripe about. The neck /body fit and finish on this guitar is superior to a LOT of guitars that cost a LOT more money. It's damn nice.
(Internet rumors are that the M75's chambered cosin, the M77 is put together even better....but that's probably pretty subjective )
The absolute best part of this guitar is the neck.
The Neck / Headstock / Neck Pocket and Neck Binding are all absolutely dead on. .... and don't think it's just a fluke on mine....I have read this same thing over and over on reviews and forum posts about the M75/M77 line... The neck is smooth, fast, and really easy to play. The deep pocket makes it very easy to slide up to some of the higher frets without any thumb gymnastics on the neck joint, and then neck itself is just very comfortable in the hand. It just plain "feels good". The neck is just a little skinny....so if you like your neck to feel like a two-by-four...this ain't for you.
The guitar back and neck are coated with a heavy poly finish. I'm usually not a huge fan of thick poly finishes, they remind me of roadside park picnic tables....and the poly on my M75 is plenty thick...but done well. I have never has issues with it being sticky or anything like that, it has always played great.
The finish on my DeArmond is equal to a couple of Gretsch's I have....the poly is a lot thicker on the M75...but... someone spent some time with this guitar and a good buffing wheel. It's put together and finished very well. Zero complaints about the guitar construction. I'm a little surprised that they didn't throw some binding on the headstock....it's done so well everywhere else.
The tuners are fine by me....I'm not a real picky guy when it come to tuners....if they hold the strings...they're good by me...these do.
Solid....this guitar is built like a tank. It's got some heft to it. Nothing weak and wimpy about it. Even the pick guard, which is just held on by two screws directly into the body, is freakishly solid. The Bigsby is screwed down tight, and doesn't move in the slightest, even with some rather vigorous use of the stick.
The action is near perfect...even with the limitations imposed by the bridge and a set neck. The bridge is held in place by two screws that can be used to raise and lower the base and treble sides of the bridge. This makes it impossible to do individual string height adjustments, but with a little tweaking I've had no problems getting it exactly where I like it. The neck has a 12 inch radius, which makes low action easy to setup (and still keep the ability to make some big bends without fretting out).
The Neck / Headstock / Neck Pocket and Neck Binding are all absolutely dead on. .... and don't think it's just a fluke on mine....I have read this same thing over and over on reviews and forum posts about the M75/M77 line... The neck is smooth, fast, and really easy to play. The deep pocket makes it very easy to slide up to some of the higher frets without any thumb gymnastics on the neck joint, and then neck itself is just very comfortable in the hand. It just plain "feels good". The neck is just a little skinny....so if you like your neck to feel like a two-by-four...this ain't for you.
The guitar back and neck are coated with a heavy poly finish. I'm usually not a huge fan of thick poly finishes, they remind me of roadside park picnic tables....and the poly on my M75 is plenty thick...but done well. I have never has issues with it being sticky or anything like that, it has always played great.
The finish on my DeArmond is equal to a couple of Gretsch's I have....the poly is a lot thicker on the M75...but... someone spent some time with this guitar and a good buffing wheel. It's put together and finished very well. Zero complaints about the guitar construction. I'm a little surprised that they didn't throw some binding on the headstock....it's done so well everywhere else.
The tuners are fine by me....I'm not a real picky guy when it come to tuners....if they hold the strings...they're good by me...these do.
Solid....this guitar is built like a tank. It's got some heft to it. Nothing weak and wimpy about it. Even the pick guard, which is just held on by two screws directly into the body, is freakishly solid. The Bigsby is screwed down tight, and doesn't move in the slightest, even with some rather vigorous use of the stick.
The action is near perfect...even with the limitations imposed by the bridge and a set neck. The bridge is held in place by two screws that can be used to raise and lower the base and treble sides of the bridge. This makes it impossible to do individual string height adjustments, but with a little tweaking I've had no problems getting it exactly where I like it. The neck has a 12 inch radius, which makes low action easy to setup (and still keep the ability to make some big bends without fretting out).
The electronics are standard, and are pretty well done (considering the location and year that this guitar was made). Connections are all solid, and there is plenty of room, so nothing feels like it's jammed in a hole. 500K POTS all around (for both volume and tone). The 2K pickups have both a shield wire/connection, and a ground wire. I think this helps a LOT in keeping the pickups nice and quiet. The cavities are all coated with shielding paint, and the covers all have shielding on them as well. All this shielding and grounding leads to a very quiet guitar when it is plugged in. Virtually NO single coil hum off the Dynasonic 2K pickups. Some forum posters have reported some hum off these....they may need to check their cables....mine are quite as church mice.
Wiring is very similar to the Seymour Duncan Phat Cat wiring ..... with the only changes being the tap of the tone pots.... either on the sweep lug..or not...
Wiring is very similar to the Seymour Duncan Phat Cat wiring ..... with the only changes being the tap of the tone pots.... either on the sweep lug..or not...
m75t_wiring_diagram.pdf | |
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Only weak link I can see might be the 3 position switch...it's a PCB kind rather than the old fashioned (reliable) mechanical switch....I've never had an issue with mine....but you know...'jus sayin'.
An upgrade of the POTS and caps *might* be called for if you are "one of those guys" ...
you know...
a knob twiddler...
I pretty much just use volume controls, that's it... I couldn't tell you if the tone controls even work on most of my guitars.
(OK...truth be told...I usually run everything wide open all the time....I could probably just disconnect both the volume and tone pots on most of my guitars...I use the volume for some swells every now and then....but I probably wouldn't miss it much if it disappeared).
The two DeArmond 2K pickups have their own unique sound.
These are not humbuckers...so if you are looking for a Les Paul sound... just keep lookin'.
These are not "true" DeArmond Dynasonics...so if you are looking for that sound..... just keep lookin'.
(yes...they say "DeArmond" on them....and yes they say "Dynasonic"...but they are not like Old-School Dynasonics or even the 2000's ....if you've ever played with old Dynasonics..you know what I mean.)
The 2K's land somewhere between their distant ancestor, the original DeArmond Dynasonics, and a P90. They may still have a little of the Dynasonic "quack" and spank, but the clean-crisp, snap-and-pop, in-your-face-twang, has been tamed way down. Don't get me wrong...running just the bridge pickup wide open, you can almost get in to Telecaster territory.... it has some pop to it, but once you start mixing in the neck pickup the low end gets tamed quite a bit, and almost sounds a bit muddy. In the middle position with both pickups on, you can hear ghosts of the old Dynasonic quack, and things can get a little chimey if you roll the neck pickup back just a bit to balance things out.
The 2K's handle overdrive and distortion really, really, well. This is definitely their strong suit. With the snap and pop tamed down a bit, the 2K's sound balanced and give a very even sound when cranked up. Whether overdriving a tube amp or running through a distortion / overdrive pedal, you can hear the 2K's lean towards the thicker P90 sound when they get dirty.
Middle position, clean, with both pickups on, sounds nice with a little slap-back echo / delay.
Personally, I'm not the 2K's biggest fan ....but....throw some dirt on them....and they start to get a lot more fun.
An upgrade of the POTS and caps *might* be called for if you are "one of those guys" ...
you know...
a knob twiddler...
I pretty much just use volume controls, that's it... I couldn't tell you if the tone controls even work on most of my guitars.
(OK...truth be told...I usually run everything wide open all the time....I could probably just disconnect both the volume and tone pots on most of my guitars...I use the volume for some swells every now and then....but I probably wouldn't miss it much if it disappeared).
The two DeArmond 2K pickups have their own unique sound.
These are not humbuckers...so if you are looking for a Les Paul sound... just keep lookin'.
These are not "true" DeArmond Dynasonics...so if you are looking for that sound..... just keep lookin'.
(yes...they say "DeArmond" on them....and yes they say "Dynasonic"...but they are not like Old-School Dynasonics or even the 2000's ....if you've ever played with old Dynasonics..you know what I mean.)
The 2K's land somewhere between their distant ancestor, the original DeArmond Dynasonics, and a P90. They may still have a little of the Dynasonic "quack" and spank, but the clean-crisp, snap-and-pop, in-your-face-twang, has been tamed way down. Don't get me wrong...running just the bridge pickup wide open, you can almost get in to Telecaster territory.... it has some pop to it, but once you start mixing in the neck pickup the low end gets tamed quite a bit, and almost sounds a bit muddy. In the middle position with both pickups on, you can hear ghosts of the old Dynasonic quack, and things can get a little chimey if you roll the neck pickup back just a bit to balance things out.
The 2K's handle overdrive and distortion really, really, well. This is definitely their strong suit. With the snap and pop tamed down a bit, the 2K's sound balanced and give a very even sound when cranked up. Whether overdriving a tube amp or running through a distortion / overdrive pedal, you can hear the 2K's lean towards the thicker P90 sound when they get dirty.
Middle position, clean, with both pickups on, sounds nice with a little slap-back echo / delay.
Personally, I'm not the 2K's biggest fan ....but....throw some dirt on them....and they start to get a lot more fun.
The Color ....in case you missed it.....it's a freakin' blue/green aqua sparkle.....that's right, I said sparkle..... and it's bad ass. The M75T comes in other colors...but....with choices like "Champagne Sparkle" and "Blue Sparkle".... why would you even look at other colors ???? Seriously.
The back and sides are done in a "translucent dark walnut" that combined with the 3 ply binding really sets off the top.
With the sparkle paint job, dark walnut, and chrome everywhere , this guitar is one sexy beast.
The back and sides are done in a "translucent dark walnut" that combined with the 3 ply binding really sets off the top.
With the sparkle paint job, dark walnut, and chrome everywhere , this guitar is one sexy beast.
The Bad.
Like I said in the beginning, this isn't my "Desert Island" guitar.... there are just a few little things that keep it from being a awesome guitar. Some of these little things are easily fixable, but some are a little more complex that they initially seem.
The worst thing about the M75T is the Bigsby and bridge combination. It looks like they installed a "licensed" Bigsby B7.
A "B5" or "B50" would probably have been a smarter choice. The main issue here is the break angle over the bridge.....it's to sharp. Three out of the 6 strings actually hit the bridge, and the angle and distance from the saddles to the bottom of the Bigsby tension bar is both to sharp and to short. If the Bigsby were moved back a few inches, allowing for some distance between the bridge and the tension bar, the Bigsby would probably work significantly better. As it sits now...it's pretty stiff and doesn't really work the way a Bigsby should. With no distance on the string...it's hard to get a good glassy shimmer.
Like I said in the beginning, this isn't my "Desert Island" guitar.... there are just a few little things that keep it from being a awesome guitar. Some of these little things are easily fixable, but some are a little more complex that they initially seem.
The worst thing about the M75T is the Bigsby and bridge combination. It looks like they installed a "licensed" Bigsby B7.
A "B5" or "B50" would probably have been a smarter choice. The main issue here is the break angle over the bridge.....it's to sharp. Three out of the 6 strings actually hit the bridge, and the angle and distance from the saddles to the bottom of the Bigsby tension bar is both to sharp and to short. If the Bigsby were moved back a few inches, allowing for some distance between the bridge and the tension bar, the Bigsby would probably work significantly better. As it sits now...it's pretty stiff and doesn't really work the way a Bigsby should. With no distance on the string...it's hard to get a good glassy shimmer.
On my M75T the Low E , B and High E all hit the rear edge of the bridge. I can't even slip a piece of paper in between them. This could definitely cause some issues with sound/strings, and with the operation of the Bigsby. Somebody was sleeping at the wheel when they designed this.....or they used different (cheaper?) parts in production then they did in the initial design. If this were a hardtail and didn't have the Bigsby...I'd probably just ignore the strings hitting the bridge.....LOTS of Gibson guitars have this issue, and most players either ignore it or wrap the strings over the top of the tailpiece/stopbar....but...the Bigsby throws a curve in to that.
There is some argument to making sure strings don't hit the bridge :
"the "extra bend", especially if several strings are doing it, will eventually bend the bridge posts and make your bridge lean forward, ruining intonation and making adjustment difficult. This is because when properly adjusted, the strings will only put downward pressure on the bridge. When the string contacts the rear of the bridge behind the saddle, it creates a forward pressure in addition to the downward pressure already present. Simply raise the stop bar until the string doesn't contact the bridge body. Contrary to the popular myth, the stop bar does not have to be tightened all the way to the body of the guitar for good sustain. That's hogwash. And wrapping the strings over the stop bar will do nothing more than permanently mar the plated finish of the stop bar. "
...and ....the counterpoint...
"The string bending across the back of the bridge will really do no harm or have any ill or negative affects. Strats and Teles (or any "string through" guitar) all have this extra bend point.
The extra bend (and rub) does create a weak point where the string might break, but if you have no breakage problems you'll be fine. "
I see the Fender Strat / Tele argument...but....it doesn't take the Bigsby trem into account.
In my opinion.....the use of the Bigsby is definitely going to be hampered by the strings rubbing on the back of the bridge. Especially the wound string. I can see my low E getting caught on the edge of the bridge and causing some weird things to happen (pinging and tuning come immediately to mind).
As I see it, the strings rubbing on the back of the bridge can be taken care of in a few different ways:
1. Ignore it....do nothing...over time the strings will dig their own path through the bridge.
2. File small channels in the rear of the bridge for the strings to pass without touching he bridge.
3. Replace the bridge with a tune-o-matic that has a thinner wall after the saddles.
4. Replace the bridge entirely...with maybe a roller bridge or a solid bar style bridge.
5. Remove the Bigsby tensioner bar (or run the strings over the top of it).
6. Replace the Bigsby with one that has a better / different string angle.
So....down the list:
1....not the best idea....but it's what I've done so far...
2.....possibility
3.....good luck finding one. That's going to be like searching for a needle in a needle stack.
4..... normally I'm not a fan of roller bridges (AT ALL) but...in this instance....it might be worth a look.
5.....possibility...this is probably the easiest/cheapest thing to try....
6.....unless the mounting holes match up perfectly...it's going to leave some ugly empty holes behind...plus...Bigsbys ain't cheap.
There is some argument to making sure strings don't hit the bridge :
"the "extra bend", especially if several strings are doing it, will eventually bend the bridge posts and make your bridge lean forward, ruining intonation and making adjustment difficult. This is because when properly adjusted, the strings will only put downward pressure on the bridge. When the string contacts the rear of the bridge behind the saddle, it creates a forward pressure in addition to the downward pressure already present. Simply raise the stop bar until the string doesn't contact the bridge body. Contrary to the popular myth, the stop bar does not have to be tightened all the way to the body of the guitar for good sustain. That's hogwash. And wrapping the strings over the stop bar will do nothing more than permanently mar the plated finish of the stop bar. "
...and ....the counterpoint...
"The string bending across the back of the bridge will really do no harm or have any ill or negative affects. Strats and Teles (or any "string through" guitar) all have this extra bend point.
The extra bend (and rub) does create a weak point where the string might break, but if you have no breakage problems you'll be fine. "
I see the Fender Strat / Tele argument...but....it doesn't take the Bigsby trem into account.
In my opinion.....the use of the Bigsby is definitely going to be hampered by the strings rubbing on the back of the bridge. Especially the wound string. I can see my low E getting caught on the edge of the bridge and causing some weird things to happen (pinging and tuning come immediately to mind).
As I see it, the strings rubbing on the back of the bridge can be taken care of in a few different ways:
1. Ignore it....do nothing...over time the strings will dig their own path through the bridge.
2. File small channels in the rear of the bridge for the strings to pass without touching he bridge.
3. Replace the bridge with a tune-o-matic that has a thinner wall after the saddles.
4. Replace the bridge entirely...with maybe a roller bridge or a solid bar style bridge.
5. Remove the Bigsby tensioner bar (or run the strings over the top of it).
6. Replace the Bigsby with one that has a better / different string angle.
So....down the list:
1....not the best idea....but it's what I've done so far...
2.....possibility
3.....good luck finding one. That's going to be like searching for a needle in a needle stack.
4..... normally I'm not a fan of roller bridges (AT ALL) but...in this instance....it might be worth a look.
5.....possibility...this is probably the easiest/cheapest thing to try....
6.....unless the mounting holes match up perfectly...it's going to leave some ugly empty holes behind...plus...Bigsbys ain't cheap.
After a little more surfing and reading.... I found a few people that replaced their TOM (Tune-O-Matic) bridges with a fairly cheap Wilkinson style roller bridge from Guitar Fetish....
https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Brass-Roller-Bridge-Locking-Studs-Chrome_p_866.html
https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Brass-Roller-Bridge-Locking-Studs-Chrome_p_866.html
By all accounts......this is supposed to just drop right in, and take care of almost all the bigsby issues..... and for the price.....$24.95 (plus a couple bucks shipping) I feel it's definitely worth a shot....if it works as well as others say...this may make the bigsby truly usable.
My past experiences with roller bridges leave me doubting.... but....the steep break angle to the underside of the bigsby tension bar may actually work in the bridges favor. The angle may cause the strings to be snug enough that they won't pop out of the saddles on the roller bearings.
My past experiences with roller bridges leave me doubting.... but....the steep break angle to the underside of the bigsby tension bar may actually work in the bridges favor. The angle may cause the strings to be snug enough that they won't pop out of the saddles on the roller bearings.
So...In a few days....the bridge showed up.....and I put it on..... literally a 5 min job. A little snug.....but...it did snap right on without any real issues. Except for the A string....intonation was dead on....
And it seems that most of my fears were unfounded with this bridge..... I did have to adjust the height of the bridge quite a bit...I lowered the two screws *exactly* three full rotations. ....(it might actually be just a bit low now....) ...but so far.....not a single issue. Bends are fine, no strings popping out, nothing like that.
and......
Hot Damn !!! The Bigsby is usable !
So far...it's holding tune pretty well, and the Bigsby definitely feels smoother. Has a lot more dip and quiver, and it definitely "feels" more like a Bigsby.
After a few days I noticed some "pinging" from the nut when I use the bigsby....pretty sure it's the G string that's getting hung up.
I'll give a little white grease / lubrication a try before I start looking at a new nut.....but..... I have always kind of thought that the nut slots seemed to be cut pretty deep for a guitar with a whammy on it, so a new nut may be in my future.
If you plan on using the bigsby at all...this is the one upgrade you have to do. Seriously. For $30.00, it's a no-brainer.
In the mean time I have been scouting around for pickups that would fit this beast.....like I said....I don't "dislike" the DeArmond 2k's... they definitely have their place, and they sound great with a little distortion / OD on them (almost more of a P90 sound...)...but they are not how I think this guitar wants to sound....the bottom end can get pretty dull and can come off kind of lifeless and muddy when you run it clean.
The main issue is the surface mount DeArmond Dynasonic footprint...... it's like no other. It is a unique size and a unique fit. You're not going to be able to buy any old pickup and just drop them in. The physical footprint of the route may also be an issue..... I'm starting to see why the guy in the above photo used a "blank" and cut a hole for the tele neck pickup.....in the bridge position. (I don't quite get the pickup choice....but the installation makes sense).
So...doesn't look like you could mount any type of humbucker in the routes..... they are way to small.....
and......
Hot Damn !!! The Bigsby is usable !
So far...it's holding tune pretty well, and the Bigsby definitely feels smoother. Has a lot more dip and quiver, and it definitely "feels" more like a Bigsby.
After a few days I noticed some "pinging" from the nut when I use the bigsby....pretty sure it's the G string that's getting hung up.
I'll give a little white grease / lubrication a try before I start looking at a new nut.....but..... I have always kind of thought that the nut slots seemed to be cut pretty deep for a guitar with a whammy on it, so a new nut may be in my future.
If you plan on using the bigsby at all...this is the one upgrade you have to do. Seriously. For $30.00, it's a no-brainer.
In the mean time I have been scouting around for pickups that would fit this beast.....like I said....I don't "dislike" the DeArmond 2k's... they definitely have their place, and they sound great with a little distortion / OD on them (almost more of a P90 sound...)...but they are not how I think this guitar wants to sound....the bottom end can get pretty dull and can come off kind of lifeless and muddy when you run it clean.
The main issue is the surface mount DeArmond Dynasonic footprint...... it's like no other. It is a unique size and a unique fit. You're not going to be able to buy any old pickup and just drop them in. The physical footprint of the route may also be an issue..... I'm starting to see why the guy in the above photo used a "blank" and cut a hole for the tele neck pickup.....in the bridge position. (I don't quite get the pickup choice....but the installation makes sense).
So...doesn't look like you could mount any type of humbucker in the routes..... they are way to small.....
And the screws holes look like they are 1 and 7/32 ??...maybe 1 and 1/4 ?? Width that is....
...and maybe 3 and 1/16th the long way ???
Seems like a really, really, odd measurement.....
Seems like a really, really, odd measurement.....